Shear Fanatic™ — Professional Shear Sharpening Curriculum Overview
Instructor: Scott Wilson • Format: Streamable video modules with optional downloads • Audience: Professional sharpeners & advanced beginners seeking pro, convex-edge results
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1. Convex Edge / Japanese Edge / Hamaguri Theory
You’ll learn
- Geometry of the convex arc vs. flat/bevel; where the true cutting apex lives.
- What “Hamaguri” means in practice: progressive curvature and blended facets.
- Ride line function as the air-tight seal; how sealing impacts push vs. slice.
- Edge radius, micro-bevels, and why “too sharp” can fail under hair load.
- Burr formation & removal that preserves convex geometry (no roll-over).
- Loupe-based inspection: scratch patterns, apex continuity, contact zones.
Tools & references
- Flat hone with films/pads, water stones (3k–8k), loupe (10–20×), marker test.
Outcome
- Ability to identify, explain, and protect a true convex/Hamaguri edge.
2. Sharpening Machines
You’ll learn
- Flat Hone vs. Twice As Sharp (TAS): architectures, strengths, trade-offs.
- Setup, speed control, platen care, angle control, and safety standards.
- Maintenance rhythms: alignment checks, wheel profiling, film adhesion.
- When TAS is appropriate (bevel & utility) vs. flat hone (convex fidelity).
- Contamination control & cleanliness to protect the ride line and apex.
Tools
- Flat hone, TAS, alignment blocks, angle jigs, dressing sticks.
Outcome
- Confident, safe machine operation with predictable, repeatable results.
3. Ride Lines
You’ll learn
- Identifying the ride line and sealing surface under magnification.
- When to restore vs. preserve; polishing sequences that don’t dish the spine.
- Diagnosing seal failure: light leak test, push test, drop test correlations.
- Stone prep for sealing; slurry management; finishing without rounding.
Tools
- Water stones (e.g., 3k–8k), nagura, lapping plate, loupe, marker.
Outcome
- Reliable, repeatable sealing that prevents pushing and restores glide.
4. J-Hooks
You’ll learn
- What J-hooks are (and nylon guides), how they form, and symptoms in cutting.
- Inspection and mapping of the hook; differentiating from burr artifacts.
- Removal strategies that preserve apex and ride line—no over-polishing.
- Prevention via angle discipline, grit transitions, and tension setting.
Outcome
- Confident diagnosis & correction of hooks with minimal material loss.
5. Sharpening Pads for Flat Hone
You’ll learn
- Pad bases (glass, acrylic, foam-cushioned) and how they affect convexity.
- Film grit mapping (e.g., 15µ → 9µ → 3µ) and scratch-pattern reading.
- PSA vs. hook-and-loop; adhesion, cleaning, and lifespan management.
- Choosing sequences for finish vs. bite, based on scissor use case.
Outcome
- Build custom pad/film stacks to target feel (buttery vs. grabby) on demand.
6. Sharpening Wheels for Twice As Sharp
You’ll learn
- Wheel types (coarse → fine, deburr/polish, leather) and correct pairing.
- Profiling/dressing to maintain flatness and predictable edge formation.
- Angle setups for bevel & utility edges; cautions for convex shears.
- Deburr/polish workflows that don’t round the apex.
Outcome
- TAS workflows that produce crisp, durable bevels with clean cut tests.
7. Water Stones
You’ll learn
- Soak vs. splash-and-go; grit selection for sealing and finish work.
- Flattening cadence; pencil-grid method; stone wear diagnostics.
- Slurry control for fast cut vs. fine polish; avoiding edge rounding.
- Glass-backed stones (e.g., Shapton Glass): stability and feel.
Outcome
- Confident stone prep & finish that upgrades smoothness and sealing.
8. Lapping Plates
You’ll learn
- Diamond plate choices (e.g., Atoma/DMT) and grit selection for flattening.
- Trueness checks; avoiding stone dishing; keeping edges safe.
- When to flatten mid-job; water management and plate care.
Outcome
- Dead-flat stones that produce consistent ride-line seals and finishes.
9. Tension Systems
You’ll learn
- Knob, coin/slotted, click-plate, spring/washer, bearing, and UFO systems.
- Drop test, 45° fall, and in-hand feel tests; reading feedback correctly.
- Washer inspection & replacement; stack height & preload basics.
- How tension interacts with set, sealing, and cutting faults.
Outcome
- Precise, repeatable tensioning that holds through a full workday.
10. Setting Shears / Hammer & Anvil
You’ll learn
- Support points, anvil selection, and hammer control for micro-adjustments.
- Creating/relaxing set along the blade; keeping the tip cross clean.
- Sequencing: sharpen → set → tension → test → micro-corrections.
- Avoiding over-set, toe-in, light leaks, and clicky closes.
Outcome
- Confident, controlled set work that restores alignment and cut quality.
11. Proper Tip Alignment
You’ll learn
- Diagnosing tip offset vs. twist vs. bend; when to adjust which area.
- Soft-jaw tool use; micro-bends near the tip; creep-up methods.
- Light-leak/feel tests and safe closing sound benchmarks.
Outcome
- Tips meet perfectly with safe close, no bite, no daylight.
12. Scissor Types
You’ll learn
- Left vs. right hand geometry; what truly makes a left-hand scissor left-handed.
- Swivel thumbs: ergonomics, set/tension nuances, testing approaches.
- Thinning, chunking, texturizers: tooth shapes, set behavior, burr traps.
- Barber vs. stylist patterns; long-blade stability considerations.
Outcome
- Tailored sharpening per type for best feel, control, and durability.
13. Edge Types
You’ll learn
- Convex, semi-convex, bevel, micro-bevel, and serrated edge behaviors.
- When to add micro-bevels for strength vs. pure convex for silkiness.
- Serration patterns for utility vs. hair; how to preserve or re-create.
Outcome
- Matching edge geometry to use-case for performance and longevity.
14. Forged vs. Cast
You’ll learn
- Forging vs. casting: grain flow, toughness, and sharpening feel.
- Common steels (e.g., 440C, VG10, ATS-314) and their polishing response.
- Heat-treat clues and how they present during sharpening/setting.
Outcome
- Material-aware technique choices that reduce risk and rework.
15. Oiling & Maintenance
You’ll learn
- Friction points to oil, how much, and safe products to use.
- Pivot cleaning, screw care, thread-lock cautions.
- Disinfection that won’t attack finishes or washers (barbicide pitfalls).
- Customer hand-off: daily care checklist that keeps results longer.
Outcome
- Quiet, smooth action that lasts; fewer callbacks and warranty work.
16. Fitting Guide
You’ll learn
- Measuring hand size; ring insert selection; rest placement.
- Offset vs. straight handles; neutral wrist alignment for stamina.
- On-the-fly adjustments for comfort and control.
Outcome
- Better ergonomics and control for clients; higher satisfaction.
17. Problem Solving
You’ll fix
- Pushing, bending, folding hair (seal vs. set vs. tension root causes).
- Hair catching/snags; chatter; harsh close; tip bite.
- Noisy/scuffing pivots; premature dulling; corrosion marks.
- After-service test protocol to sign off confidently.
Outcome
- Systematic diagnosis → targeted correction → verified results.
18. Marketing Your Sharpening Business Business
You’ll build
- Service menu & price ladder (in-salon, mail-in, white-glove options).
- Simple outreach system: routes, school partnerships, cosmetology pros.
- Google Business Profile basics, reviews flywheel, and proof assets.
- After-service follow-up: stickered care card, tension check script.
- Repeat business: text/email reminders tied to usage intervals.
Outcome
- Predictable lead flow, higher retention, and premium positioning.