Shear Fanatic™ — Professional Shear Sharpening Curriculum Overview

Instructor: Scott Wilson • Format: Streamable video modules with optional downloads • Audience: Professional sharpeners & advanced beginners seeking pro, convex-edge results

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Table of Contents

  1. Convex Edge / Japanese Edge / Hamaguri Theory
  2. Sharpening Machines
  3. Ride Lines
  4. J-Hooks
  5. Sharpening Pads for Flat Hone
  6. Sharpening Wheels for Twice As Sharp
  7. Water Stones
  8. Lapping Plates
  9. Tension Systems
  10. Setting Shears / Hammer & Anvil
  11. Proper Tip Alignment
  12. Scissor Types
  13. Edge Types
  14. Forged vs. Cast
  15. Oiling & Maintenance
  16. Fitting Guide
  17. Problem Solving
  18. Marketing Your Sharpening Business

1. Convex Edge / Japanese Edge / Hamaguri Theory

You’ll learn
  • Geometry of the convex arc vs. flat/bevel; where the true cutting apex lives.
  • What “Hamaguri” means in practice: progressive curvature and blended facets.
  • Ride line function as the air-tight seal; how sealing impacts push vs. slice.
  • Edge radius, micro-bevels, and why “too sharp” can fail under hair load.
  • Burr formation & removal that preserves convex geometry (no roll-over).
  • Loupe-based inspection: scratch patterns, apex continuity, contact zones.
Tools & references
  • Flat hone with films/pads, water stones (3k–8k), loupe (10–20×), marker test.
Outcome
  • Ability to identify, explain, and protect a true convex/Hamaguri edge.

2. Sharpening Machines

You’ll learn
  • Flat Hone vs. Twice As Sharp (TAS): architectures, strengths, trade-offs.
  • Setup, speed control, platen care, angle control, and safety standards.
  • Maintenance rhythms: alignment checks, wheel profiling, film adhesion.
  • When TAS is appropriate (bevel & utility) vs. flat hone (convex fidelity).
  • Contamination control & cleanliness to protect the ride line and apex.
Tools
  • Flat hone, TAS, alignment blocks, angle jigs, dressing sticks.
Outcome
  • Confident, safe machine operation with predictable, repeatable results.

3. Ride Lines

You’ll learn
  • Identifying the ride line and sealing surface under magnification.
  • When to restore vs. preserve; polishing sequences that don’t dish the spine.
  • Diagnosing seal failure: light leak test, push test, drop test correlations.
  • Stone prep for sealing; slurry management; finishing without rounding.
Tools
  • Water stones (e.g., 3k–8k), nagura, lapping plate, loupe, marker.
Outcome
  • Reliable, repeatable sealing that prevents pushing and restores glide.

4. J-Hooks

You’ll learn
  • What J-hooks are (and nylon guides), how they form, and symptoms in cutting.
  • Inspection and mapping of the hook; differentiating from burr artifacts.
  • Removal strategies that preserve apex and ride line—no over-polishing.
  • Prevention via angle discipline, grit transitions, and tension setting.
Outcome
  • Confident diagnosis & correction of hooks with minimal material loss.

5. Sharpening Pads for Flat Hone

You’ll learn
  • Pad bases (glass, acrylic, foam-cushioned) and how they affect convexity.
  • Film grit mapping (e.g., 15µ → 9µ → 3µ) and scratch-pattern reading.
  • PSA vs. hook-and-loop; adhesion, cleaning, and lifespan management.
  • Choosing sequences for finish vs. bite, based on scissor use case.
Outcome
  • Build custom pad/film stacks to target feel (buttery vs. grabby) on demand.

6. Sharpening Wheels for Twice As Sharp

You’ll learn
  • Wheel types (coarse → fine, deburr/polish, leather) and correct pairing.
  • Profiling/dressing to maintain flatness and predictable edge formation.
  • Angle setups for bevel & utility edges; cautions for convex shears.
  • Deburr/polish workflows that don’t round the apex.
Outcome
  • TAS workflows that produce crisp, durable bevels with clean cut tests.

7. Water Stones

You’ll learn
  • Soak vs. splash-and-go; grit selection for sealing and finish work.
  • Flattening cadence; pencil-grid method; stone wear diagnostics.
  • Slurry control for fast cut vs. fine polish; avoiding edge rounding.
  • Glass-backed stones (e.g., Shapton Glass): stability and feel.
Outcome
  • Confident stone prep & finish that upgrades smoothness and sealing.

8. Lapping Plates

You’ll learn
  • Diamond plate choices (e.g., Atoma/DMT) and grit selection for flattening.
  • Trueness checks; avoiding stone dishing; keeping edges safe.
  • When to flatten mid-job; water management and plate care.
Outcome
  • Dead-flat stones that produce consistent ride-line seals and finishes.

9. Tension Systems

You’ll learn
  • Knob, coin/slotted, click-plate, spring/washer, bearing, and UFO systems.
  • Drop test, 45° fall, and in-hand feel tests; reading feedback correctly.
  • Washer inspection & replacement; stack height & preload basics.
  • How tension interacts with set, sealing, and cutting faults.
Outcome
  • Precise, repeatable tensioning that holds through a full workday.

10. Setting Shears / Hammer & Anvil

You’ll learn
  • Support points, anvil selection, and hammer control for micro-adjustments.
  • Creating/relaxing set along the blade; keeping the tip cross clean.
  • Sequencing: sharpen → set → tension → test → micro-corrections.
  • Avoiding over-set, toe-in, light leaks, and clicky closes.
Outcome
  • Confident, controlled set work that restores alignment and cut quality.

11. Proper Tip Alignment

You’ll learn
  • Diagnosing tip offset vs. twist vs. bend; when to adjust which area.
  • Soft-jaw tool use; micro-bends near the tip; creep-up methods.
  • Light-leak/feel tests and safe closing sound benchmarks.
Outcome
  • Tips meet perfectly with safe close, no bite, no daylight.

12. Scissor Types

You’ll learn
  • Left vs. right hand geometry; what truly makes a left-hand scissor left-handed.
  • Swivel thumbs: ergonomics, set/tension nuances, testing approaches.
  • Thinning, chunking, texturizers: tooth shapes, set behavior, burr traps.
  • Barber vs. stylist patterns; long-blade stability considerations.
Outcome
  • Tailored sharpening per type for best feel, control, and durability.

13. Edge Types

You’ll learn
  • Convex, semi-convex, bevel, micro-bevel, and serrated edge behaviors.
  • When to add micro-bevels for strength vs. pure convex for silkiness.
  • Serration patterns for utility vs. hair; how to preserve or re-create.
Outcome
  • Matching edge geometry to use-case for performance and longevity.

14. Forged vs. Cast

You’ll learn
  • Forging vs. casting: grain flow, toughness, and sharpening feel.
  • Common steels (e.g., 440C, VG10, ATS-314) and their polishing response.
  • Heat-treat clues and how they present during sharpening/setting.
Outcome
  • Material-aware technique choices that reduce risk and rework.

15. Oiling & Maintenance

You’ll learn
  • Friction points to oil, how much, and safe products to use.
  • Pivot cleaning, screw care, thread-lock cautions.
  • Disinfection that won’t attack finishes or washers (barbicide pitfalls).
  • Customer hand-off: daily care checklist that keeps results longer.
Outcome
  • Quiet, smooth action that lasts; fewer callbacks and warranty work.

16. Fitting Guide

You’ll learn
  • Measuring hand size; ring insert selection; rest placement.
  • Offset vs. straight handles; neutral wrist alignment for stamina.
  • On-the-fly adjustments for comfort and control.
Outcome
  • Better ergonomics and control for clients; higher satisfaction.

17. Problem Solving

You’ll fix
  • Pushing, bending, folding hair (seal vs. set vs. tension root causes).
  • Hair catching/snags; chatter; harsh close; tip bite.
  • Noisy/scuffing pivots; premature dulling; corrosion marks.
  • After-service test protocol to sign off confidently.
Outcome
  • Systematic diagnosis → targeted correction → verified results.

18. Marketing Your Sharpening Business Business

You’ll build
  • Service menu & price ladder (in-salon, mail-in, white-glove options).
  • Simple outreach system: routes, school partnerships, cosmetology pros.
  • Google Business Profile basics, reviews flywheel, and proof assets.
  • After-service follow-up: stickered care card, tension check script.
  • Repeat business: text/email reminders tied to usage intervals.
Outcome
  • Predictable lead flow, higher retention, and premium positioning.